The Fit Is It!
It's always good to start a new year off with an inspirational newsletter. In 2008, I did Eight Things That Will Get You On A Makeover Show, 2009 was Nine Things To Try In '09, and for 2010, I will go over ten different fit rules. Proper fit is a big key to achieving that "put-together" look. Some of the tips come down to an inch or two, literally, but it makes all the difference.
Shoes
Let's start at the bottom of the body, with shoes, and work our way up. Ideally, shoes should be leather, inside and out. Leather, a natural material, will allow your feet to breathe and unlike synthetic, which can get hot and be uncomfortable. Leather will stretch, but not that much so if the shoes are tight, get the next size up.
Length of Pants
Many of you have heard about my number one pet peeve, pants that are too short. The picture to the left is what I normally see, however, the one to the right, is the correct length. 
There are two guidelines that you can follow - pants at the proper length should brush the toe of your shoe, or cover three-fourths of your heel.
When pants are at the correct length, then the eye goes down to the shoe, then comes straight back up - there's no break in the line of the body. This small fit rule helps make you look taller and slimmer.
Length of Skirts
Aside from pants, skirts are another issue when it comes to length. Skirts should be knee-length, which means right above, at or just below the knee. If you are petite, (5'4" and under), then keep the length above the knee. Longer and it can shorten a petite. There is one exception: If you have a large bust, then you can have the length at or just below the knee. This extra length, proportion wise, helps balance out the weight on top.
If you are used to wearing your skirts longer, just try adjusting the length in a mirror - the visual difference will speak for itself! And, I will quote Tim Gunn in a recent fashion article, "A dress or a skirt should never fall any lower than the lowest point of one's kneecap. So many women wear it to mid-calf, but nothing could be dowdier and frumpier. The most flattering length hits right at the knee."
Length of Tops
While on the topic of length, let's talk about the length of tops. Unless it's a tunic (which is meant to be longer, like mid-thigh), tops should never cover the crotch. When a top covers the crotch, you lose the line of the leg and that makes you look shorter.
The top at the left is just a 
little bit too long, while the top at the right is shorter, which helps draw the eye up. This is actually the same model in both of these pictures and even though length is adjusted by just an inch or so, it makes a difference.
My mom is petite and it's a very common alteration for her to have an inch taken off the bottom of a top. I know this can be a pain, but again, play with this look in a mirror and you will see the difference.
Wear Tops Out, Not Tucked In
For tops, it is also best to wear tops out instead of tucking them in. If you tuck a top in, you don't give it a chance to highlight or create a waist. 
Instead, the eye focuses on where you tucked it in, which is usually the area women want to camouflage.
The shirt shown at the right wouldn't be as flattering and would look very different if tucked in. Left out, it is able to nip in at the waist and then float away from the body. And, depending on your body type, tucking something in can actually make you look thicker in the middle. This is especially true if you are a rectangle and do not naturally have a defined waist.
Empire Waist
While everyone pronounces empire waist differently, there should be no discussion in terms of fit. An empire seam should lay flat against the body, under the bust line. Once again, clothes are made for the masses, so your bust may or may not fit a certain designer's style. It's nothing against you, it just how they cut that particular top.
Jacket Sleeves
In terms of a jacket sleeve, with your arms at your side, it should hit at the gummy part between your thumb and index finger. It should not end at the wrist. That's too short because anytime you reach forward, to use the computer, talk on the phone, shake someone's hand, then the jacket sleeve starts to creep up and will be too short.
When you look at this picture, the right sleeve, the one actually on the left-hand side of the photo, is the perfect illustration of the correct length. Too long is sloppy and looks like you are wearing your boyfriend's or husband's jacket, and too short and it looks like the jacket shrunk.
Shoulder Seams
When fitting a jacket or top, take note of where the sleeve starts as it should sit on top of your shoulder and fall straight down. Most people choose items that are too big and you can see the shoulder seam hits at the top of the arm, not the shoulder. When a garment is too big, it looks sloppy and makes you look bigger.
Bra Size
The last two rules of fit deal with undergarments. First, the right bra size is crucial and most women are wearing bras that are too big. The majority of the support of a bra comes from the band size and if it's too big, then it starts to move up the back. Remember, bras stretch out and your bra size can change - get fitted for the right size.
Underwear
While bras may be too big, I see panty lines that tell me the underwear is too small. Just as clothes shouldn't be too tight, neither should your underwear. You can have the perfect fitting pair of trousers, but worn with underwear that is digging into your side and the whole look is ruined. If the size is embarrassing, cut out the tag. No one will know and your clothes will fit better.
If you are worried about still trying to hold everything in, try this is a shaper thong from Cosabella, sold at Nordstrom. It would still act like a pair of Spanx, but won't give you a panty line.
Although you may know when you like something, hopefully, you will now have a better understanding of the correct fit. Very few women can walk into a store and have something fit perfectly. Even though all the fashion models are very thin, the designers still have to tailor the clothes to their body. Fit is everything. Fit is the difference between okay and fabulous! Take these tips with you and don't be afraid to work with a tailor.
Services
Closet Organization and Clothing Analysis - $250 for 3 hours or less; includes wardrobe guidelines and shopping list
Personal Shopping - $60/hour to go shopping together, $75/hour if I go shopping for you
Look Book - $75
Seasonal Closet Update - $175, a revisit for clients who have already done a Closet Organization; includes updated shopping list
I am also available for 'What Not to Wear' Parties, corporate presentations, seminars and classes.
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I am also available for 'What Not to Wear' Parties, corporate presentations, seminars and classes.