I often say that there are no rules in fashion anymore, just the rules of fit. However, the rules of fit are different for men and women. Here are some of the main differences:
Length of Jacket - For women, a jacket sleeve should “clear the top of your hand” or hit at the “gummy” part between your thumb and index finger. There are jackets with ¾ length sleeves, but for the proper fit for a regular jacket, a woman needs to make sure that it extends past her wrist bone. For men, the sleeve of a jacket should “break at the wrist.” This difference in length ensures that a man’s shirt sleeve (about an inch) will peak out underneath the jacket.
Shoes: To match or not? Women used to make sure that their shoes matched their handbag, but nowadays, this can be dated. It’s better if things coordinate, but not match. If a woman is wearing black pumps, she can choose a red bag as a pop of color. Fun and oh so chic! Unfortunately, men don’t get to mix ‘n match. It is a faux pas to wear black shoes with a brown belt. Shoes and belts should match or should at least be in the same color family. Sorry guys, but women get to have a little more fun breaking this rule!
Length of Trousers - Like jackets, this fit rule differs greatly between men and women. For example, men should have a slight break at the bottom of their trousers, but trousers on a woman should be straight, without any break. I tell women that their trousers should brush the toe of their shoe or cover ¾ of their heel. Either guideline is appropriate. For men, trousers should break slightly at the crease above the hem. If there’s too much fabric gathered at the bottom, then the look becomes sloppy and adds pounds. However, for both sexes, beware of the trousers that are too short! This is all too common and looks really bad. Remember, you can have the most expensive, beautiful and unique garment, but if it doesn’t fit, the whole look falls apart. A tailor is your best friend!
“‘Tis hell to a man of spirit to be contradicted by his tailor.”
- Richard Garnett
